Carmen CaliPipeGirl

Asazeel

Glynn Quelch

OzarkNick

PipeWizard86

thechemwiz

SmokinGrampa Bones

BUT – A well cared for pipe can last a long, long time.  If you’re a tightwad like myself, this is a definite perk.  So if you have a nice pipe that you want to pass down to your future grandchildren, try some of these cleaning tips!

Tip #1:  Run a pipe cleaner through your pipe every time you smoke it.  Don’t remove the stem when your pipe is warm.  It can warp if you do that, so try to use the pipe cleaner before you smoke.  Normal fluffy pipe cleaners are fine for regular use; bristle cleaners and brushes are for deeper cleaning.

You should also run a cleaner around the pipe bowl, to remove any debris left over from previous smokes.  If you let the tobacco remnants stick around, they will get covered by cake (the solid surface that builds up inside the bowl.)  When the bits get covered by cake, they can seriously mess up your pipe.

Tip #2:  Occasionally use a pipe sweetener or alcohol to recondition your stem and bowl.  Do this when your pipe starts to taste bitter.

• Many smokers use whiskey, vodka, etc. to clean their pipes.
• You can find a variety of pipe sweeteners (such as Pipemaster’s Clean & Cure, which is what we carry) at your local pipe shops and online.
• Always let your pipe dry out completely after it has been cleaned.  Let it sit overnight or longer before you light up.
• Be careful not to get liquid cleaner on the outside of your pipe bowl.  It can ruin the finish.

Fill your pipe bowl to the brim with alcohol, and let it sit for at least 10 minutes.  Carefully pour out the liquid.  Wipe the inside of the pipe with a paper towel and pipe cleaner, then let it dry overnight.  The alcohol seeps into the pores of the briar and pushes out moisture.  This allows your pipe to dry quicker, taste sweeter, and smell better.  Only do this with wood pipes.

Tip #3:  Pipe reaming!  When the cake in your bowl gets over a nickel’s width in thickness, you might want to ream it.  A reamer will gently scrape away the build up, and – most importantly – keep the cake even.  If the cake builds up unevenly, it can crack your pipe.

Most pipe shops will ream your pipe for little or no cost; or you can purchase a reamer for yourself.

Did I miss anything?  Feel free to share your own tips and tricks.

]]> http://justforhim.com/blog/?feed=rss2&p=400 0 http://justforhim.com/blog/?p=389 http://justforhim.com/blog/?p=389#comments Wed, 19 Mar 2014 20:25:19 +0000 http://justforhim.com/blog/?p=389 Continue reading]]> Every single day we have a few customers walk into our shop and ask for tips on keeping their pipe lit.  We tell each of them the same thing:  Work on your packing technique.  This first step is the most crucial for mastering the art of pipe smoking.

We use a three-step packing routine, which is pretty standard for most pipe smokers.  You will need a pipe, tobacco, some sort of tamper, and a flame (lighter or match, whatever strikes your fancy.)

Step 1:  Make sure your tobacco is loose and non-clumpy (break it up with your fingers if needed.)  Loosely sprinkle tobacco into the bowl until it reaches the top.  Do not push it in – just sprinkle.  Now, using your tamper, lightly pack the tobacco down until the bowl is half full.  Try taking a draw on the pipe at this point.  If there’s any resistance, dump it out and start over.

Step 2:  Once again, loosely sprinkle tobacco until it fills the bowl.  Tamp it down to about 3/4 of a full bowl.  Test the draw again.  There should still be very little resistance – less than drawing on a cigarette.

Step 3:  Sprinkle tobacco into the bowl until it is full, and forms a little mound over the top of the bowl.  Said mound should be less than half an inch.  Pack it down so that the tobacco is flat and even with the brim of the bowl.  There should still be very little draw-resistance at this point.  If it feels more difficult than sucking on a straw, dump that bad boy out.

Done!  Almost.  I mean, your perfectly-packed pipe will be of little use if you don’t light it properly.  This is a two step process:

Step 1:  Make fire.  “Walk the flame” evenly around the bowl while you take 5-6 slow, even puffs.  Try to char the entire surface layer of tobacco evenly.  The tobacco will puff up as you light it.

Step 2:  LIGHTLY tamp the burnt layer down until it is once again even with the top of the bowl.  The most important thing to remember at this point is the following:  Do not tamp too hard.  You only need to tamp the ashes flat and even, nothing more.  Now, again, walk the flame around your bowl as you take 5-6 good puffs.

That’s it, for real this time.

You probably noticed that I used the words “even,” “lightly,” and “loosely” profusely in this post.  Those three words are very important, so don’t forget them.

Any questions?

It isn’t often that one encounters a young person with the patience and drive to master the art of pipe carving.  Enter Matt Roussell, one of our locals who has managed to make a name for himself in a remarkably short period of time.

We sell some of Matt’s pipes here at the shop.  It’s always exciting when he brings us a new one because each of his pipes are not only beautiful, but so unique.  Whether it’s a new finishing technique or a new shape, it is obvious that Matt loves learning and experimenting.

Matt was kind enough (okay, fine, we threatened him) to answer a few questions for the blog.  Enjoy!

Just For Him:  Where and how do you select your briar?

Matt Roussell:  I buy my briar from Steve Norse, who owns Vermont Freehand.  I tell Steve what grade of briar I want and if I want cross cut grain or plateau block.  Then he sends them my way.

What are your favorite shapes or styles to carve:

MR:  I love making Blowfish, and I enjoy making just about any panel style pipe.  I also like Danish shapes.

Who are your favorite pipe carvers, and how have they influenced you?

I am a big fan of S. Bang!  I really enjoy his shapes, they inspire me.  Jody Davis is another carver that I look up to, as well as Peter Heding.

How and why did you start carving pipes?

My wife told me I needed a hobby, haha.

What goals have you set for your business?

To rule the world.  Seriously I would like to make this my career one day, but it’s one step at a time!

What are some of the challenges you face as a pipe maker?

My biggest challenge is finding time.  It’s difficult to balance a full time job, pipes, and my family.

Have you noticed any trends in the pipe world lately?

Reverse Calabash pipes seem very popular right now.  Also seamless stems and pipes are starting to become popular.

What pipe shape do you find most difficult to carve?

Billiards; it’s such exact measurements to the pipe.  Especially when it comes to sanding.  If you sand even a tiny bit too much the whole pipe look is off.

Impressed?  We always are.  Imagine what his work will be like 10, 20, 30 years from now!  To learn more about Matt’s pipes, take a look at his Facebook page.

All images by Roussell Pipes

Shall we proceed?  In this post we will show you examples of different pipe finishes.  Rusticated, sandblasted, smooth…  What does it all mean?

We’ll start with “smooth” since it’s the most popular finish, and also self-explanatory.  Smooth pipes have no carving or rustication of any kind.  That’s it.

Here’s where the fun starts:  Rusticated, rough finishes.  Rustication is a surface treatment of a wood pipe to give it a rough texture.  It is basically a blanket term that covers all types of rough finishes.  All of the following finishes will fall under the “rusticated” category.

The two pipes in this photo have a carved finish.  The maker used a small carving tool to create patterns and rivulets on the briar.  Pipe makers will frequently use this finishing technique on pieces of briar that do not have a particularly attractive grain.

Panel pipes display a combination of finishes.  In the photo, the stunning Matt Roussell pipe (top) features sandblasting and a smooth finish.  The bottom pipe is smooth and carved.

For whatever reason, I have a soft spot for sandblasted pipes.  Sandblasting is a technique that involves spraying the bowl and shank with sand to add texture.  Sand is not the only material that can be used – glass beads and other such substances work too.

Freehand pipes are fun.  These are created for a number of reasons – to fit nicely in your hand; to emphasize the beautiful wood grain; to look awesome…  No two are alike, which is an added bonus.  The pipe we used as our example is by a local pipe carver, Bear’s Den.  Erik Nording is a big name in freehand styles, so give his pipes a look if you are interested.

We’ll stop there for now.  Obviously there is so much more that we could cover, but we’ll save that for later.  Expect a post on Meerschaum pipes soon, as well as an interview with Matt Roussell!  Anything else you want us to talk about?  We love talking.